Turn Your Busted Tomatoes Into Tomato Water
I can't help but empathize with the heirloom tomato this time of year. The first BLTs have been eaten; the novelty has worn off. Stacked on farmers' market tables like milk bottles in a carnival game, late-summer tomatoes start to look a little worse for wear. Like me, they are often etched with lines from spotty hydration. They're a little busted, a little bruised. Also like me, they retain in their haggard hides a secret well of great beauty and value. If you find yourself with a surfeit of ugly heirloom tomatoes this summer, there is only one thing to do: Make tomato water. Tomato water is the purest expression of a tomato—all heart, no husk. It is an excellent way to sneak umami, a word my editor told me I was only allowed to use once in this blog, into salad dressings and sauces and negronis. The water inside of a tomato is packed with glutamates, the savory compounds derived from having a thick ass. Those glutamates are the building blocks of MSG, which stands for Making Stuff Good. The magic trick of tomato water is that it allows you to make things more savory without necessarily making them salty.
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